Nutrient Deficiency in Plants: Signs and Fixes by Crop

Lower leaves turn pale yellow green first and the whole field looks light green and short.

Dark green plants whose lower leaves dry yellow brown at the tips and edges.

Short, very upright, dirty dark green plants with very few tillers.

Two to four weeks after transplanting, patches of short plants with dusty brown spots and pale midribs.

The whole plant is pale yellow, and the youngest leaves are the palest.

The newest leaves turn yellow between the veins, then almost white, in dry upland or alkaline fields.

Older leaves show orange yellow stripes between the veins, like a string of beads, and hang wavy.

Young leaves turn greyish green between the veins from the tip down, then get brown spots.

Tips of the youngest leaves turn white and roll, and plants are short.

New leaves stay rolled into needles at the tip, plants are bluish green, and many grains are empty.

Tips of the youngest leaves turn white, split and roll, only on very acid or leached soils.

Soft leaves that droop instead of standing up, more brown spot and blast than the next field, and stems that fall over.

Lower leaves turn yellow in a V from the tip down the midrib, and plants are pale and thin.

Young plants are short and dark green, with purple red edges on the lower leaves.

Lower leaves dry brown along the edges while the middle stays green, and stalks break and fall.

Wide white or pale yellow bands on both sides of the midrib from the leaf base, on short plants with bunched leaves.

The young upper leaves are the palest, while the lower leaves stay greener.

Upper leaves have white spots and waxy brown streaks, and tassels and ears fail to come out.

Lower leaves get yellow to white stripes between the veins, later turning reddish purple.

Tips of the young leaves stick together like a ladder, on very acid soil.

The youngest leaves come out yellow, and their tips brown, roll and break.

Upper leaves turn pale yellow to white between the veins along their whole length.

Lower leaves turn yellow in a V from the tip, and ears come out small with bare tips.

Lower leaf edges dry brown, and ears are short and pointed with unfilled tips.

Young plants are short and dark green, with purple red edges on the lower leaves.

Wide white or pale yellow bands on both sides of the midrib from the leaf base, on short plants with bunched leaves.

The young upper leaves are the palest, while the lower leaves stay greener.

Upper leaves have white spots and waxy brown streaks, and tassels and ears fail to come out.

Lower leaves get yellow to white stripes between the veins, later turning reddish purple.

Tips of the young leaves stick together like a ladder, on very acid soil.

Lower leaves turn yellow in a V from the tip down the midrib, and plants are pale and thin.

Young plants are short and dark green, with purple red edges on the lower leaves.

Lower leaves dry brown along the edges while the middle stays green, and stalks break and fall.

Wide white or pale yellow bands on both sides of the midrib from the leaf base, on short plants with bunched leaves.

The young upper leaves are the palest, while the lower leaves stay greener.

Upper leaves have white spots and waxy brown streaks, and tassels and ears fail to come out.

Lower leaves get yellow to white stripes between the veins, later turning reddish purple.

Pale, thin plants whose lower leaves yellow from the tip down the midrib.

Short, stiff, dark green plants with red or purple leaves and sheaths.

Older leaves dry at the tips and edges, with red specks and brown streaks.

White to pale yellow bands on the lower half of young leaves, with a red line on the edges.

On limey, high pH soil, young leaves turn yellow to white between green veins, in patches of the field.

The young upper leaves turn evenly pale yellow, with no dead spots.

Older leaves turn dark yellow between the veins, then deep red and rusty brown.

Pale, thin plants with few branches whose lower leaves yellow and drop. The roots often have few or dead nodules.

Plants stay small and dark green with few pods, often without clear leaf marks.

Yellow patches on the edges of the lower leaves join up, with dark spots and curled edges.

The young leaves turn pale yellow first, then the whole plant is evenly pale.

About a month after sowing, leaves turn small and yellow between green veins and the plants stop growing.

New leaves turn yellow green with green veins, then fully yellow, on limey or high pH soil.

The top of the plant bunches into a rosette and the upper leaves turn yellow or reddish at the tips.

Pale, slow monggo on acid soil that looks short of nitrogen, with few nodules that are white inside.

The plants look fine, but many pods are empty (pops) or the kernels are shrunken and dark.

Pale yellow, stunted plants, sometimes with reddish stems, and few nodules on the roots.

Lower leaves pale slightly between the veins, then the leaf edges turn yellow and dry.

Young leaves stay small in a rosette, and kernels have a hollow, dark heart.

The whole plant is evenly light green, thin stemmed and spindly.

Young leaves suddenly turn yellow between green veins and stay small, on limey soil.

Light yellow stripes along the veins of the leaves, and the bud at the top stops growing.

Leaves pale between the veins and plants stay short, often after heavy liming.

Pale yellow plants that look short of nitrogen on acid soil, with small nodules that are white or green inside.

Light green, stunted plants, often in patches or rows, with few or white nodules on the roots.

Short, dark bluish green plants with few pods.

Older leaves yellow in blotches from the edges inward.

The newest leaves turn pale first, then the whole plant is evenly yellow green.

Light green plants that look nitrogen starved, on very acid soil, even with nodules present.

Youngest leaves turn yellow with green veins, then almost white, on limey soil.

Leaves pale green to yellow between green veins, later with brown spots, often after liming.

Leaves pale evenly between green veins, then turn rusty brown.

Older leaves turn yellow between the veins, then deep yellow with rusty specks.

Vines grow weak and light green, lower leaves yellow, and the roots have few working nodules.

Slow, short, dark green vines with few flowers and pods.

Older leaflets yellow at the tips and edges, then brown, while pods stay short.

Older leaves yellow between green veins, then deep yellow with rusty specks.

Top leaves crinkle and stay small, and flowers drop.

New leaves pale between green veins, often where lime was spread heavily.

Pale yellow green plants with weak growth and few working nodules on the roots.

Small, dark green plants that grow slowly and set few pods.

Older leaflets yellow at the tips and margins, go brown, then fall.

Older leaves yellow between the veins, then deep yellow with rusty specks.

Young leaves pale between green veins, later with brown spots, often on limed sandy soil.

Young leaves turn yellow, veins and all, then nearly white, on limey soil.

New leaves come out small and crinkled.

Vines stay short and weak on red, acid soil, with few pods and small roots.

Pale, slow vines whose roots have few pink nodules.

Older leaves yellow and scorch at the edges, and the vines fix less nitrogen.

Growing tips and roots fail to develop on very acid soil.

Pale, nitrogen starved vines on very acid soil even when nodules are present.

Pale, slow plants whose lower leaves yellow, with few working nodules.

Short, dark bluish green plants, sometimes purple tinted, with few pods.

Edges of the older leaves yellow and scorch.

Top leaves turn yellow between green veins, often where the soil was limed too much.

Leaves yellow between green veins, internodes stay short and pod set drops.

New leaves curl and crinkle, and flowers and pods are few.

Young bushes stay pale and thin, with few pink nodules on the roots.

Small, stunted, dark green plants with no clear leaf marks.

Leaf tips yellow then scorch, with a yellow band between the dead edge and the green.

New leaves yellow first, then the whole plant is evenly yellowish.

Narrow, pale leaves that yellow between the veins from the tip, leaving only the midrib green.

Young leaves turn light green between dark green veins, on limey soil.

Mild yellow between dark green veins that turns rusty brown in streaks.

The top bunches into a rosette and upper leaves yellow or redden at the tips.

Older leaves yellow and scorch at the edges and roll up, and roots stay small.

Pale green vines that spread slowly, with the oldest leaves yellowing and drying.

Small, stunted vines with dark old leaves and purple red color under the leaves.

Older leaves yellow between the veins, sometimes with red or purple on top, and cup.

Young leaves are distorted and brittle, and storage roots have hollow or brown spots inside.

Leaf tips die back and storage roots come out soft, small and misshapen, on very acid soil.

Leaves yellow from the tip to the base, veins included, and vines stay short with few branches.

Short internodes, small pale young leaves, and purple shoot tips.

Older leaves yellow between the veins and scorch at the edges. Plants branch a lot and sprawl.

Pale green plants with short stems and small leaves, yellowing from the bottom up.

Stunted plants with a few yellow lower leaves and purple under the leaves, and late harvest.

Young leaves have narrow, pale lobes that curl up, on short internodes.

Lower leaves turn yellow between green veins and cup inward.

Upper leaves curl and get brown to black spots at the tips and edges, on very acid soil.

The young upper leaves yellow first, and stems are thin and weak.

Small deformed young leaves on short stalks with brown gummy spots on the stalks and stem tips.

Older leaf blades yellow first, then all of them, with stunted plants and few suckers.

Slow plants that wilt easily, with scorched edges or brown spots in the middle of older leaves.

Stunted plants with darker green old leaves dotted with light spots.

The youngest leaf yellows between the veins and cups, with brown edges, and roots die back.

Older leaves yellow between dark green veins, then the edges brown and die.

Younger leaves are small and evenly yellow, and roots stay short.

Young leaves yellow between the veins, then bleach evenly, in dry upland fields.

Plants are just stunted with small leaves. There are few other signs.

Dull, light green vines with small leaves and short internodes.

Lighter green crop with fine yellow between the veins of young mature leaves. Lower leaves brown from the tips at tuber filling.

Growth slows with no clear marks, then young leaves get small, stiff and curl down at the tip.

Light green crop with yellow between the veins of young mature leaves and light brown stains on old leaves.

Smaller, narrow, curled or wavy leaves on short internodes, and cracked tubers.

Young leaves show fine pale, sunken spots between the veins that turn into dead spots, on limey soil.

On coral or limey ground the young leaves go pale while thin green veins stay visible like a net, then they bleach white.

Whole leaves, veins included, turn evenly pale yellow, starting low on the plant.

Leaflets crinkle, tips burn and dead patches form between green veins, turning the leaf scorched and dark.

Short, dark plants with purple stems and leaf undersides, and leaflets curled upward.

Mottled yellow between the veins of young mature leaves, then dead scorched patches.

Young leaves small, pale and curled, sprout tips black, and rusty spots inside the tubers.

The growing tip dies and the plant turns bushy. Young leaves wilt even with enough water.

The whole plant, young leaves included, yellows evenly, with reddish veins and leaf stalks.

Young leaves yellow and mature leaves get pitted, dead spots between green veins.

Fewer, smaller tops that turn yellow green from the oldest leaves, and thin, stiff roots.

Older leaves pale and scorch at the edges, which cup backward, and roots show violet streaks.

Short plants with small, distorted leaves tinged pink or purple, and late root formation.

Crinkled young leaves, a dead growing point, orange tinted old leaves and small carrots.

The tips of young leaves and roots brown and die, leaf edges turn ragged, and roots stay small.

Mature leaves yellow between green veins and drop, and roots are small and pale.

Young leaves stay small (little leaf) and turn yellow.

Small, pale tops that yellow from the oldest leaves, with thin, fibrous roots.

Roots crack and develop poorly, and the growing point may die.

Older leaves scorch at the edges, brown and collapse, and curl backward.

Older leaves turn strongly purple and die early, and plants stay small.

A general yellowing of the leaves about midway through the season, on high pH soil.

Bottom leaves yellow between dark green veins, then redden and get dead spots.

Growing tips of leaves and roots brown and die, and leaf stalks collapse.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow, leaves are small and the clump grows weak.

Older leaves yellow and burn at the edges, with dead spots, and plants wilt easily.

Dark green plants with purple leaf undersides and small, stunted rhizomes.

Older leaves yellow between green veins with brown spots, sometimes with a yellow arrowhead at the leaf base.

Small, puckered leaves bunched at the top, yellow between the veins.

Young leaves yellow between green veins, then bleach almost white.

Young leaves crinkle and twist with dead edges, and roots are stunted and rot.

Older leaves pale yellow green with red tints creeping from the edges to the midrib.

Leaf edges burn brown, with dead spots, short internodes and plants that wilt easily.

Slow plants with deeper color or purple browning, thin stems and lost lower leaves.

Young leaves yellow between the veins, fast spreading over the whole leaf until it is white.

Older leaves yellow at the edges and between the veins, often with an arrowhead shape at the leaf base.

Small, distorted, bunched leaves at the top with yellow between the veins.

Stunted plants whose leaves turn pale yellow, veins included.

New leaves look mottled, light green to yellow green between the veins.

Outer leaves turn pale yellow and the plants stay small and slow.

The tips and edges of the young centre leaves turn brown and dry, and soft rot can follow.

Older leaves get a light brown, dry band along the edges that curls up.

Seedlings and young plants stay small and dark, sometimes with purple undersides.

Outer leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay green.

New centre leaves come out small, thick and crinkled, and stalks may crack.

Young centre leaves turn pale with blue green veins and purple undersides.

Outer leaves turn yellow green with a red or orange tint and the head stays small or never forms.

Hollow, brown centre of the stem and light, loose heads.

Brown, dry edges on the inner leaves of the head, seen only when you cut it open.

Older leaves get a light brown, withered band along the edges that curls up.

Plants simply stay small and slow, sometimes with a pink or purple tint.

Outer leaves yellow between the veins and turn orange or red, while big veins stay green.

Young inner leaves turn pale yellow and the plant is slow to head.

On acid soil, faint yellow green plants with narrow, toothed leaves that bend down and loose heads.

Outer leaves turn light green to yellow and the head stays loose and small.

Brown or grey dead edges on the young inner leaves, worse in hot weather.

Older leaves get yellow spots on the edges that die and scorch, and heads stay loose.

Stunted, dull dark green plants that are late to head.

Older leaves get yellow to orange edges and yellow between green veins.

Damage sits at the growing point of the youngest leaves, with poor, stubby roots.

On acid soil, pale stunted plants whose leaf edges wilt and die back, with clear spots between veins.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow and shoots stay thin and short.

Plants stay short with dark green leaves and thin, woody stems.

Older leaves look greyish, then bronze, with brown edges.

Older leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay green.

The newest shoot tips turn pale yellow between green veins, then fully yellow.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow, sometimes with red tints, and leaves stay small.

Young leaves turn pale between blue green veins, cup, and get purple undersides.

Older leaves get light brown, dry edges that curl up.

Small, slow plants with reddish or purple older leaves.

New leaves come out small, crinkled and brittle, and stalks may crack.

Older leaves yellow between green veins, starting from the edge.

Brown, dead tips on the youngest leaves in hot, dry weather.

Pale plants with orange to red edges on old leaves, and small, loose heads.

The stem is hollow with brown tissue inside, and new leaves look crinkled.

Burnt, dead tips and edges on the youngest leaves.

Older leaves yellow, then brown from the edges with a sharp border.

Older leaves turn reddish from the edges with a yellow green band, in cold or dry soil.

Older leaves get a mottled yellow look between green veins, from the edges inward.

Young leaves turn pale, stiff and purplish, with narrow spoon shaped leaves on long stalks.

On acid soil, narrow, cupped young leaves with yellow, scorched edges in patches of the field.

Older leaves yellow with red edges, and small button curds form too early.

Brown or pink patches on the curd and a hollow, water soaked stem.

New leaves are narrow and strap like, sometimes only the midrib, and no proper curd forms.

Young leaves get dead, burnt tips and claw like curling. Curd segments turn brown and glassy.

Older leaf edges turn yellow, then light to dark brown, and curl up.

Older leaves turn dull bluish green with purple color and red undersides.

Older leaves yellow from the edges toward the midrib while the veins stay green.

Young leaves turn evenly pale, stiff and reddish, with thin leaf stalks.

Older leaves fade to pale yellow and new shoots come thin and slow after cutting.

Older leaves get bronze, brown edges that curl down.

Cuttings root and grow slowly, with small, dark green leaves.

Older leaves yellow between the veins, sometimes with a reddish purple tint.

On limed or alkaline soil, the newest leaves turn pale yellow between green veins.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow and plants grow thin, hard stems with few tender tops.

Seedlings stay small and dark green with thin, woody stems.

Older leaves bronze and brown at the edges and curl down.

On limed or alkaline soil, the newest top leaves turn pale yellow between green veins.

New leaves and tips are small, brittle and deformed, and roots stay short.

Oldest outer stalks turn evenly yellow and then almost white.

The young heart leaves in the centre turn brown to black and rot.

Stalks crack across or split along the veins, like claw marks.

Older leaves look ashy grey green, then bronze, with brown, downturned edges.

Older leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay green.

Plants stay small with slender stalks and dark green leaves.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow first and the plant looks thin and spindly.

Old leaves get scorched, curled edges and the fruit ripens in green or yellow blotches.

A dark, sunken, leathery patch at the bottom end of the fruit, opposite the stem.

Small, stiff, dark bluish green plants with purple undersides on the lower leaves.

Lower leaves turn yellow between green veins, starting from the leaf edge, while fruits are filling.

Brittle leaf stalks that snap, a dying tip, and fruits with rough, cracked or corky skin.

Short, bunched shoots with small, stiff, leathery leaves that curl down.

Young top leaves turn pale yellow green, stiff and curled down, with purple stems.

New top leaves turn yellow with a fine net of green veins, but keep their normal shape.

Young leaves get orange yellow mottling between green veins with tiny dark brown dots.

Bottom leaves turn pale yellow, plants stay thin, and fruits come small and pale.

Older leaves get scorched, crinkled edges and stems feel weak.

Stems, leaf stalks and the undersides of old leaves turn purplish and the plant stays short.

Mature leaves turn yellow in the middle between green veins, with spotted dead patches.

Brown to black leathery spots at the bottom end of the fruit and curled, hard young leaves.

New leaves come out wrinkled and brittle, tips die, and the plant stops branching and flowering.

Small, bunched rosettes of yellowish new leaves and flowers that drop without fruiting.

Young leaves turn evenly yellow, stay narrow and pointed, and veins look reddish.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow and drop, and fruits come small, pale and thick.

Old leaves scorch and cup, shoot tips die back and fewer female flowers open.

Mature leaves yellow in the middle while the edges and veins stay green.

Short, thin shoots and dull leaves with purple veins.

New leaves come out hooked and scorched, the vine tip dies, and fruits fail to set.

Young fruits drop, and fruits that stay show yellow streaks, corky skin and cracks.

Young leaves are small, pale with green veins, and bunched on short vines.

Older leaves yellow from the tips and drop, and fruits are small and pale.

Old leaves scorch and cup up, and fewer female flowers and good fruits form.

Older leaves yellow between the veins, and the yellow patches die and fall out.

Purplish leaves and veins, short thin runners and poor yield.

Young fruits rot at the flower end, and new leaves crinkle and scorch.

Young fruits drop, and fruits show corky streaks and cracks.

Young leaves are pale with green veins and bunched on short runners.

Old leaves bleach yellow, vines are thin, and fruits come pale and misshapen.

Old leaf edges yellow and scorch to dry paper, and fruits stay thin at the stem end.

Older leaves yellow between the big veins, leaving a narrow green band along each vein.

Stunted vines with small, dull grey green leaves and weak roots.

Youngest leaves scorch and cup downward, the tip dies, and fruits fail at the blossom end.

Young fruits drop, and older fruits show yellow streaks that turn corky near the blossom end.

Middle and upper leaves turn pale yellow while the veins stay green.

Lower leaves pale and drop, and pods come small, pale and misshapen.

Older leaves yellow and scorch at the edges while the leaf base stays dark green.

Older leaves look extra green, then purple, on short, thin plants.

Young leaves yellow between the veins, turn whitish and stay few and small.

New leaves are small and brittle, and pods stay short and misshapen with few seeds.

Fully grown leaves yellow in the middle while the edges stay green.

Growing tips brown and die, and young leaves rosette with ragged, upturned edges.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow, veins included, and plants branch little.

Leaf tips and edges burn brown and leaves crinkle and curl.

Sunken, water soaked spots at the tip of the fruit that dry out and turn black.

Purple stems and leaf undersides, few branches, and late flowering.

Leaves that just reached full size turn yellow between the big green veins and drop early.

Brittle, twisted new leaves and fruits that crack or drop.

Young leaves are small, stiff and mottled yellow, and the plant is short jointed.

Young top leaves turn evenly pale and curl down, with reddish veins.

Young leaves are mottled yellow with a fine net of green veins and dark spots along the veins.

Lower leaves yellow and fall early, and the whole plant looks pale and small.

Large sunken, water soaked patches near the bottom of the fruit that turn black and leathery.

Dark green leaves droop and wilt, with small sunken whitish spots and burnt edges.

Small, wilting plants with mottled leaves and short, narrow fruits.

Older leaves go pale between the veins while a green band stays along each main vein.

The youngest top leaves look evenly pale from a distance, with short jointed stems.

Short, stunted plants with small leaves crowded on short stems.

Newest leaves at the tip turn yellow green between dark green veins.

Young leaves go pale between the veins while even the small veins stay dark green.

Older leaves turn yellow, vines grow slowly and fruits stay small and pale.

Old leaf edges yellow, then brown and cup, while fruits fill poorly.

Oldest leaves yellow between the veins while fruits enlarge, and the yellow tissue falls out.

Slow vines with small, dark leaves and late flowering.

New leaves come out deformed and brittle, and young fruits drop or crack.

Older leaves pale and yellowing up the vine, with small, pale fruits.

Old leaves scorch and cup up, shoots die back, and few female flowers open.

Purplish leaves along the veins and short, thin runners.

Mature leaves yellow in the middle with green edges and green veins.

New leaves crinkle and curl, vine tips die, and fruits fail to set or rot at the end.

Young fruits drop, and fruits show corky marks and cracks.

Older leaves on the vine turn pale yellow and tops for harvest grow slowly.

Older leaves look grey green, then bronze with brown, downturned edges.

Slow vines with small, dark green leaves and late flowering.

New leaves and tips come out brittle and deformed, with few female flowers and fruits.

Oldest leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay green.

New leaves are small and mottled yellow, with many dead spots.

Old leaves pale and yellow up the runner, with small, misshapen fruits.

Old leaves scorch and cup up, and fruits have poor flesh and weak flavour.

Mature leaves yellow in the middle with green edges, and the yellow turns red and dies.

A dark rot at the flower end of young fruits, opposite the stem.

Young fruits drop, and fruits show yellow streaks, corky scurf and cracks.

Older leaves turn purple along the veins and young leaves are small, stiff and dark.

Young leaves pale with green veins, small and bunched on short runners.

Old leaves pale and yellow up the vine, and fruits are small and misshapen.

Old leaves scorch and cup up, and fruits are poorly flavoured and spotted.

Oldest leaves yellow between the veins while fruits are swelling, and the yellow patches fall out.

On acid soil, crown leaves turn pale between the veins as vines start to run, then leaf edges burn.

New leaves crinkle and hook, vine tips die, and fruits are small, soft or tasteless.

Young fruits drop, and fruits show yellow streaks, corky marks and cracks.

Purplish leaves along the veins, small stiff dark young leaves and weak vines.

Mature leaves turn pale then evenly yellow, with reddish stalks and edges.

Mature leaves brown and dry along the edges, with sunken brown spots and dark leaf stalks.

Young leaves crinkle with dead tips, and berries are small, hard and seedy at the tip.

Misshapen, bumpy berries, aborted flowers and small young leaves with dark dead tips.

Older leaves turn dull deep green with a metallic sheen and purple undersides.

Older leaf edges yellow and scorch, then the leaf turns bright yellow while its base stays green.

The youngest centre leaves turn pale yellow between the veins and can bleach.

Pale, stiff, upright leaves that yellow and die back from the tips, and small bulbs.

Young leaves turn evenly yellow, plants are thin and spindly, and bulbing is late.

Leaves first turn darker green, then the tips of older leaves wilt, droop and turn papery.

Slow, dull green plants whose leaf tips die back without yellowing, and many thick necked bulbs.

Stunted plants with twisted, bent leaves and faint yellow stripes.

Brittle, bluish green, distorted leaves with yellow cross lines and cracks near the base.

Older leaves turn evenly yellow along their whole length, with white tips.

Bulb scales are thin and pale yellow, bulbs are soft, and leaf tips burn.

Older leaves yellow between veins, tips burn and curl, and bulbs have thick necks.

Thin, pale tops whose older leaves yellow from the tips. Stalks stay short.

Dark green leaves whose older tips wilt, droop and turn papery.

Young leaves are evenly pale yellow and the plants thin and weak.

Slow, dull green plants whose leaf tips die back without yellowing.

Stunted plants with twisted leaves and faint yellow stripes.

Older leaves turn evenly yellow along their length, with white tips.

Older leaves turn pale to yellow, plants stay thin, and bulbs are small.

Young leaves turn evenly yellow, plants are thin and weak, and bulbs are light with weak flavour.

Older leaves yellow and die along the edges, and bulbs stay small and store poorly.

Dark green, slow plants, sometimes reddish purple, with small roots and bulbs.

Young leaves distorted, the growing point dies, and bulbs crack or are misshapen.

Young leaves pale and stay small, and bulbing is late.

Older leaves yellow, with whitish tips, and bulbs grow slowly.

Young leaf tips die, roots are short, and bulbs are soft and store poorly.

Pale, upright leaves dying back from the tips, few side bulbs and small clusters.

Young leaves turn evenly yellow, plants are thin, and bulbs are light and mild.

Leaves turn darker, older tips wilt and burn, and bulbs stay small.

Slow, dull green plants with tips dying back and bulbs failing to fill.

Stunted plants with twisted, bent leaves and yellow stripes.

Brittle, distorted leaves with cracks near the base, and split bulbs.

Older leaves turn evenly yellow with white tips.

The whole field looks pale yellow green, the lower leaves dry early and the stalks stay thin.

Old leaves turn yellow orange with scorched edges and red midribs, while the young leaves stay dark green.

Leaves look dark bluish green with purple tips and edges, tillers are few and the stalks stay short.

The top young leaves turn yellow green with purple edges, while the old leaves stay greener.

Young leaves show a broad yellow band across the middle of the blade, while the midrib and edges stay green.

Older leaves look rusty, covered with small orange brown freckles.

Older leaves get tiny dead spots and a rusty look, and in bad cases the spindle tip dies.

Young leaves show pale stripes from base to tip and can turn almost white.

Pale stripes on the young leaves start in the middle of the blade and run to the tip. The leaves split in the wind.

Older leaves dotted with tiny pale or white freckles on the sunny side, and ratoons that grow weaker each year.

Plants look pale yellow green with narrow leaves, and the fruits come out small (batterball).

Old leaves get yellow to orange spots and dry tips while young leaves stay dark green. The fruit is small and sour.

The young heart leaves turn pale yellow, often on acid red soils that are high in manganese.

The heart leaves bunch together and the top bends over to one side, called crookneck.

Older leaves turn yellow between the veins, most often where potash is applied heavily.

Leaves stay small and narrow with a purple or bronze color, and the plant barely grows.

The fruitlets crack and turn corky between the eyes, and the flesh browns inside.

Young leaves go pale and curl down, then turn pinkish red, and the fruit is soft or brown inside.

Young leaves fold up into a narrow gutter shape and their tips droop, then die.

Lower leaves turn paler than the top leaves and dry up early. The plant stays small and the cured leaf is pale and thin.

The tips and edges of the middle leaves turn yellow, then brown to black, and the cured leaf burns poorly.

Lower leaves yellow between the veins, starting near the tip and edge, while the top stays green.

The bud and the top leaves pale first, and the whole plant slowly turns light green from the top down.

The bud twists and dies, the top leaves are thick, brittle and curled down, and the midribs crack across.

New leaves bend down like a shepherd's crook, their edges yellow and die, and the bud can rot.

Yellow netting between the veins with small white spots, on fields that were limed too much.

Lower leaves turn pale yellow, then reddish. Plants stay short with few fruiting branches and shed their squares.

Yellow white mottling on leaf tips and edges that turns brown. Leaves curl, turn reddish brown and drop early, and bolls stay small.

Dark green rings on the leaf stalks, many squares and young bolls dropping, and small, misshapen bolls.

Lower leaves turn purple red between green veins, then drop early.

Dark green, stunted plants with reddish purple old leaves and late flowering.

The young top leaves turn pale green to yellow while the old leaves stay green. Plants are small and spindly.

Young leaves thick, leathery and cupped upward, yellow between the veins, on short, bushy plants.

Pale yellow green plants that stay short, with thin stalks and small leaves.

Old leaves yellow and scorch orange brown from the tip and edges. Short plants.

Short pseudostems and narrow leaves. Old leaf edges yellow and young leaves look bluish.

Old leaves yellow in the middle of the blade, edges stay green, leaf stalks show purple blotches.

Young leaves narrow with yellow stripes between the veins, but no dark streaks like bunchy top.

Leaves of the lower storeys turn evenly pale yellow green, worst on leaves in full sun, and the canopy stays thin.

Old leaves yellow at the tips and edges, then the edges die brown. Leaves come out smaller.

Old leaves in the lower storeys yellow between the veins, the yellow moving in from the edge while the veins stay green.

Bronzing under part of the leaf, often on one half and at the far end, with dying leaf tips and early leaf fall.

In young plants, new leaflets come small, narrow, hooked like a claw and wavy edged, with yellow between the veins.

Orange spots on the leaflets of old fronds that join into orange patches.

Old fronds pale yellow green with bright yellow midribs, and slow growth.

Leaflet tips on new fronds bend into a hook. In bad cases fronds look like a fish bone.

Old fronds turn bright orange yellow, but the shaded part of each leaflet stays green.

Old fronds dull olive green and dying early. A thin, tapering trunk and small bunches.

The clump turns pale yellow green, older leaves yellow first, and new shoots come few and thin.

Older leaves yellow and scorch brown at the tips and edges.

Clumps spread slowly and send up few shoots. Leaves may look dull dark green.

Older leaves get yellow streaks between green veins. Culms stay thin.

New leaves turn yellow with green veins, on limestone or high pH soils.

Old leaves turn orange yellow from the tip, the edges scorch brown and the midrib bends.

Pale green to yellow leaves, pinkish red leaf stalks and a thin, slow plant.

Old leaves yellow in the middle of the blade while the edge stays green. Purple blotches on the leaf stalk.

Young leaves narrow and pointed, with yellow and green stripes and a purple tint underneath.

Young leaves curl and crumple, with white streaks across the veins on the underside.

New leaves come out as a spike with little or no blade. Ripe fruit peel splits.

Short plant with weak roots. Old leaf edges yellow in a saw tooth pattern and young leaves look bluish.

Young leaves even pale yellow, veins included, on a small slow plant.

The second or third youngest leaf yellows from the edge inward along the veins, like the teeth of a comb.

Young leaves turn yellow to almost white while the veins stay green for a while.

Lower leaves go pale green from the tip, new leaves come small and slow, and leaf stalks are short, thin and pinkish.

Old leaves get lemon yellow edges that die brown, purplish brown patches show at the base of leaf stalks, and fruit come out misshapen.

Bumpy, lumpy fruit that bleed latex, with empty or poorly formed seeds inside.

Lower leaves yellow between the veins while green bands stay along the edge and the midrib. Leaf stalks look purple mottled.

New leaves pale with curled edges and small dead spots, a bunched top, and soft fruit flesh.

Dark bluish green leaves on a tree that stops growing taller, with dead patches on the old leaves.

New leaves come small and yellow between the veins, and the top bunches up.

Small, pale yellow leaves over the whole tree, yellowish twigs, weak flushes and small fruit.

Old leaves get grey to brown dead edges and scattered yellow to orange spots. Fruit stays small.

New leaves small, thick, brittle and crowded in a rosette at the shoot tip, pale between green veins (little leaf).

Fruit cracks and shows brown, soft, watery flesh inside. Many flowers drop. New leaves thick and misshapen.

Ripening fruit go soft and watery at the tip (soft nose) or brown and jelly like inside near the seed.

Old leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay dark green like a fishbone. Edges bronze.

Slow growth, old leaves fall early, shoot tips die back and new leaves stay small and dark green.

Newest leaves pale yellow to almost white with a fine net of green veins.

Leaves just reaching full size turn yellowish green with a fine net of green veins and grey specks.

The whole crown is pale yellow green, the fronds taper, and few palms bear nuts.

Old fronds show see through yellow to orange spots near the tips, then dead leaflet edges.

Fronds pale yellow to orange, fewer nuts, and copra that comes out rubbery and shrunken.

New fronds stay crinkled and unopened, leaflet tips hook, and young nuts (buttons) fall.

Old fronds show a wide yellow band along the leaflet edges while the centre stays green.

Old fronds dark or purplish green, small fronds, and flowering comes late.

New fronds come out yellow with dead streaks, then wither and frizzle. Leaflet tips drop off.

The whole tree turns light green to yellow, old leaves drop early and the canopy thins.

Young leaves with yellow patches between green veins (mottle leaf), small, narrow and standing upright.

Old leaf edges pale yellow to bronze, small wrinkled leaves, and small thin skinned fruit that may split.

Old leaves near the fruit yellow from the sides inward, leaving a green V shape at the leaf base.

Fruit small, hard and lumpy with gum spots in the white peel. Leaves curl and shoot tips die, sending out many shoots.

Young full size leaves pale between the veins with broad dark green bands along the veins. Leaf size stays normal.

Newest leaves yellow to ivory with green veins. Worst in wet, poorly drained or limey spots.

Old leaves dull with bronze or purplish freckles. Fruit coarse with a thick peel, and few flowers.

Oversized dark green leaves on long, soft shoots that bend like an S, blisters of gum at the nodes, and twigs dying back.

Older leaves pale green to yellow and falling early, so the inside of the canopy goes bare.

Old leaf edges yellow to bronze. Small fruit that split from the blossom end or show sunken creases in the peel.

Young leaves mottled yellow between green veins, small, narrow and upright. Small, smooth, pale fruit.

Mature leaves next to the fruit yellow on both sides of the midrib, leaving a green V at the leaf base (bronzing).

Small, hard, lumpy fruit with gum pockets in the white peel. Many fruit drop. Shoot tips die and branch out.

Young and medium leaves light green between dark green vein bands. Leaves keep their size. Fruit pale and soft.

Newest leaves yellow to white with green veins. Tops of trees die back on wet or limey ground.

Rough fruit with a coarse, thick peel, a hollow core and sour juice. Old leaves dull with bronze freckles.

Brown gum stains on the fruit peel, fruit that split, and long, soft, S shaped shoots with big dark leaves.

The whole tree pale green to yellow, old leaves falling early, thin canopy and few flowers.

Few flowers and fruit, poor fruit set and light fruit. Older leaf edges yellow to bronze.

Older and middle leaves yellow between the veins, leaving a green V at the leaf base, worst near the fruit.

Young leaves mottled yellow between green veins, small, narrow and upright.

Few flowers and a light crop. Old leaves dull with bronze freckles. Fruit coarse with a hollow core and sour juice.

Small, hard, lumpy fruit with gum spots in the thick white peel. Many fruit drop. Shoot tips die.

The whole canopy turns pale green, older leaves go yellow and drop, and new shoots stay short.

Edges of older leaves yellow and then burn brown. Fruits stay small with thin flakes.

A slow, stunted tree whose older leaves turn dull with a purple or bronze tint underneath.

Fruits split or crack with a reddish purple color and gum in the cracks. Young leaves yellow and brittle.

Small leaves on short stalks crowd into a rosette and yellow between the veins. Many fruits drop.

Older leaves yellow between the side veins, from the edge in toward the midrib, while the veins stay green.

Young leaves turn yellow between green veins. In bad cases the whole new leaf goes yellow.

Leaves fade from dark green to light green or yellow. Thin canopy of small leaves and few fruits.

Old leaves yellow between the veins and along the edge, turning tan then brown. Leaves curve down.

Little leaf: new leaves small, mottled yellow between the veins and crowded in tufts at the twig tips. Fruit small and round.

Dull or bronzed leaves with purple veins underneath and purplish leaf stalks. Slow growth.

Tip growth discolored and burnt, leaves twisted with corky split veins. Lumpy, misshapen fruit.

Young leaves go yellow, leaving thin dark green lines on each vein. Later the veins pale too and leaves drop.

Old leaves pale green to light yellow from the tip. Slow, thin tree with few fruits.

Older leaves dark blue green or bronzed with purple to red specks. Weak, slow tree and poor fruit.

Older leaves yellow and scorch at the edges. Weak stems, small and few fruits.

Newest leaves small, narrow and pointed, strongly yellow between bright green veins, with tiny brown dots.

Old leaves get yellow, bronze or reddish patches between the veins while the veins stay green.

Newest leaves narrow, thick and brittle, bent down as if the stalk were broken. Shoot tips die back.

Pale yellow green trees with few, small new leaves, and the older leaves yellow and drop.

Older leaflets scorch brown at the tips and edges. Bunches carry small, sour fruits.

Slow, stunted trees with dull older leaves tinged purple or bronze underneath, and poor flowering.

New leaflets come out small, narrow and bunched, yellow between the veins.

Shoot tips stunt and die back, flowers and young fruits drop, and some fruits crack or come out misshapen.

Pale canopy, yellow older leaves that drop, and weak, short flushes after harvest.

Older leaflets scorch brown at the edges. Fruits stay small and less sweet.

Slow growth, dull older leaves with a purple or bronze tint underneath, and weak flowering.

New leaflets small, narrow and bunched, yellow between the veins. Few, short flower panicles.

Older leaflets yellow between green veins. In bad cases lower leaves drop.

Pale canopy, older leaves yellow and fall, and the flush after harvest comes out short and thin.

Older leaf edges burn brown. More young fruits drop and the flesh is less sweet.

Slow growing trees with dull older leaves, a purple or bronze tint underneath, and weak flowering.

Poor fruit set, small or lopsided fruits, cracked husks, and hard, leathery flesh inside.

New leaf tips burn and shoot tips die back on acid soils. Fruit quality drops.

Older leaves yellow between green veins. Lower leaves may drop.

Pale, slow trees whose older leaves yellow evenly and drop, with few new flushes.

Slow growth, dull older leaves with a purple or bronze tint, and many flowers and young fruits dropping.

Older leaf edges yellow and burn brown. Fewer flowers set fruit.

Glassy, water soaked flesh inside the fruit, and yellow gum (gamboge) in the flesh or oozing on the rind.

Seedlings in the nursery whose young leaves turn more and more yellow while old leaves stay green.

Small, yellow green mature leaves, amber to red new leaves, thin shoots and few small fruits.

Light brown specks over the leaf that join into dead patches between the large veins.

Older leaves take on a dull purplish tint and leaves come out smaller than normal.

Yellowish green leaves with burnt tips and edges, and split midribs on the leaf underside.

Young leaves come out small and pale, crowded at the shoot tip.

Older leaves turn greenish yellow between the veins while the midrib and big veins stay deep green.

Pale yellow between the veins with wide green bands along the veins, light spots and early leaf drop.

Older leaves fade to an even pale green, then yellow and drop early. The tree grows slowly and sets few fruits.

Yellowish spots along the leaf edges that spread and turn brown, starting on older leaves.

Bluish green or purplish trees with small mature leaves that later yellow with purple veins.

Young leaves yellow between the veins, bend downward and crowd on short shoots.

Few fruits set, misshapen or cracked fruits, and shoot tips that stop growing.

Leaves yellow or greenish yellow between the veins while the leaf margins stay green.

The newest leaves turn yellow with a fine net of green veins, and later go fully yellow.

Lower leaves fade evenly to pale green, then the whole tree turns dull yellow and stays short.

Older leaves yellow from the tip and edges inward, then the edges brown and die.

Narrow, small leaves with edges curled and tips bent down. Lower leaves pale and held close to the stem.

The tips of the youngest leaves burn dark brown and roll up while the rest of the leaf stays green.

Many flowers but few fruits set, lopsided or cracked fruits, and shoot tips that stop growing.

A yellow to orange band along the midrib of older leaves while the leaf margins stay green.

A pale, light green tree with yellowing older leaves, short new shoots and a light crop.

Older leaflets scorch brown along the edges and tips. Fruits stay small and poor.

Slow, stunted growth with a purplish tint on older leaves, most on the underside.

New leaflets come out small, pale between the veins and crowded on short shoots.

The upper side of the leaves turns pale, older leaves yellow and drop, and new shoots stay short.

Edges and tips of older leaves scorch brown. Fruits stay small and poor in quality.

Young trees grow slowly and older leaves take on a purplish tint, most on the underside.

Older leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay green.

New leaves turn pale yellow with green veins, mostly on limestone or high pH soil.

Pale, thin crowns with yellowing older leaflets, slow growth and few pods.

Tips and edges of older leaflets scorch brown. Pods stay small and poorly filled.

Seedlings and young trees grow slowly, with a purplish tint on older leaflets.

New leaflets come out small and pale, bunched on short shoots.

Old leaves pale from the tip, then yellow and droopy. Small leaves, small nuts.

Leaves dark green, then dull red, green or purple. Slow tree with some dying branch tips.

Old leaf edges turn pale yellow then brown. Purple spots under the leaf. Light nuts.

Newest leaves small, long and pale with green veins, on short shoots with few side branches.

Growing buds and young leaves die, flowers drop, apples split and nuts stay empty.

Stems turn pale green to yellowish all over, new shoots come slowly and thin, and few flowers form.

Older stems yellow and dry at the edges, and fruit come small, light and less sweet.

Plants grow slowly with weak roots and few new shoots, and flower poorly.

Older stem segments turn yellow while the young shoots stay green.

New shoots come out pale yellow on high pH or limestone soils.

The whole tree turns pale yellow green, leaves lose their shine and new shoots barely grow.

Old leaves go mottled yellow or take a pink to purple tint. Roots and new growth stay weak.

Old leaves get a yellow band at the edge, then dark brown dead spots that join into a burnt edge. The centre stays green.

New leaves come out small, bent and misshapen with dead tips, and the shoot tip dies.

New leaves narrow and strap like, yellow between dark green veins, bunched at the branch tip.

Old leaves yellow along the edges and between the veins, with a wide band of sunken light brown spots.

Young leaves turn bronze at the edges and cup downward. The shoot tip dies back.

Young leaves pale yellow, a little more along the midrib, but they keep their shine.

Young leaves light yellow to creamy white with a sharp net of green veins. Old leaves stay green.

Small, evenly soft yellow green leaves on a slow tree. New leaves come out almost white.

Old leaves blotchy pale between the veins, then die back from the tip with a sharp edge. New leaves small and narrow.

Old leaves get reddish yellow patches between the side veins that die from the tip and edge, with a wavy yellow border.

Sickle leaf: new leaves narrow, curved and lopsided, with wavy edges and pale bands between prominent veins.

Old leaves get tiny black pinpoints with yellow halos between the veins, then a marbled dead edge.

Many chupons, new leaves twisted and falling before they harden, brittle old leaves with dead tips.

Small yellow green leaves with tiny white spots seen against the light, and dead tips and edges.

Leaves dull yellow green with sharp green veins and a bumpy surface between them.

The newest mature leaves evenly yellow green on a very short last flush.

The whole plant turns light yellow, new leaves come small, and plants stay thin and weak.

Older leaflets yellow and scorch at the edges, and pods stay short and thin.

Slow growing young plants with dull dark green leaves, sometimes purplish, and weak roots.

Few flowers and few pods set on trees that look healthy, with new shoots that may twist.

New leaflets come small and pale between the veins, and shoots stay short.